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This is your guide line for the first weld bead. Use 3.2mm a and
approximately 125 amps.
Lay the plate
on the bench so as its length is across your body. Get used to
welding across your body‑this is the only way you can see where
you're going from start to finish of the electrode. While welding
towards yourself may seem easier for achieving a straight line,
the electrode and holder will soon block your view. After having placed a bead down the
centre of the plate, chip off the slag and put down another
alongside so that the edge (toe) of the second bead just laps up
to the top of the first bead. See Fig. 9. Continue laying down
beads of even width and height. After several runs, the pad may
begin to get too hot. You may reduce to hand hot by periodic
quenching in water in your practice session although this is not a
recommended practice for most actual welding applications.
Always fill
the crater at the end of the bead by raising the electrode tip
slightly and moving back over the crater area, pausing a little
before withdrawing to break the arc. Unfilled craters are weak and
a possible source of weld cracking.
When joining
up to a previous bead, first chip the old crater free of slag.
strike an arc in the joint a little ahead and move back into the
crater and establish a full width molten pool before progressing
along the weld. See Fig. 11.
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In carrying
out a series of welds, experiment with a little higher current
(say 140 amps) and lower current (say 90 amps) and note the
differences in running, spatter, bead shape, etc. you will note
that you can obtain satisfactory welds with lower currents once
the pad is hot. Also you should now be trying to differentiate
between the slag and metal in the molten pool and achieve the feel
of controlling both.
Do your
experimenting with electrode angles, travel speeds, joining up
beads etc., while doing your pads. It's more economical on steel
and will assist you in laying down better fillet welds and butt
welds at an early stage. See Fig. 10.
Weaving
So far we have
concentrated on straight weld beads, varying the rate of travel to
vary the bead width. A wider bead can of course be obtained by
using a larger electrode, but there are some occasions where we
wish to achieve a slightly wider bead or better shape with the
same size electrode. A technique of lateral movement of the tip
across the weld puddle called weaving can be employed. The width
of weaving is usually restricted to a movement of twice the
diameter of the electrode. Try a few weaves to produce a slightly
wider bead, ensuring that the molten pool is maintained under the
arc and keeping the slag back, pausing slightly at the end of each
lateral movement. Fig. 11.
You may obtain
full value out of your steel pad by laying down a second pad at
right angles to the preceding pad layer and building up the height
indefinitely. Padding, properly done is a means of rebuilding worn
areas to size and is used extensively in maintenance work on
shafts etc.
Concentrated welding in one
spot can cause distortion by localized overheating and residual
stresses. Wherever possible, balance the welding evenly over the
job. Figure 13 illustrates a typical procedure for padding a shaft
to size.
We have spent considerable
time on our basic work. If this is understood and practiced then
its application to the following joints will require less detailed
information to enable you to follow its application. |